from book "Unknown Urals" N Rundquist ----------------------------------------------------------- THE UNKNOWN URALS The Urals are the stronghold of the state, its miner and blacksmith... From the very childhood we know this characteristic of the land lying at the heart of Russia, a world-famous large industrial centre whose natural resources have served the country from time immemorial. But we invite you, friends, to meet other Urals - miraculous and beautiful, severe and tender, the Urals without labour enthusiasm of metallurgists and pota- toplanters, heroic conquest of their delicate nature, smoky industrial landscapes and views of like towns. Our wish is to show you the nature and only the nature of this wonderful land: its age-old forests, limpid springs and lakes, untouched mountain peaks, cold glaciers, and a legion of other things which are hidden from most towndwellers behind long kilometers, daily problems and hustle of everyday life. The Ural mountains which are else called the Stone Belt extend for 2500km from hot Kazakh steppes to the frozen coast of the Arctic Ocean. The album is com- posed so as to lead the reader from the south to the north. Thus we shall tell you about the mountains in the sequence set up by the nature itself and you will be able to follow the changes in the Ural landscape. Geographers divided the Urals into five regions: South, Middle, North, Subarctic and Arctic Urals. The widest part of the Urals that comprises dozens of parallel ridges and bounded in the north and the south by the valleys of Ufalei and Ural rivers respec- tively is called the SOUTH URALS. Steppe and forest- steppe landscapes are typical of the footfills in this part of the Urals. Higher in the mountains, the hillsides are covered with mixed forests and the highest peaks, like islands, emerge among the green ocean of forests. The highest mountains of the South Urals - Yaman- tau (1640 m) and Bolshoi Iremel (1582 m) - are located in the western row of the ridges. A relatively low and narrow part of the Ural mountains is found northward of the the valley of Ufalei river up to the latitude of Basegi. This is the MIDDLE URALS. Their gently sloping hills are blanketed with south taiga. The Middle Urals present the most lived- in-part of the Urals. The major transport routes con- necting the Europian Russia and Siberia pass here. The legendary Chusovaya river - the only river in the Urals that crosses the mountain chains from the east to the west - runs its waters in the Middle Urals. The NORTH URALS extend strictly in the meri- dional direction up to the latitudinal section of the valley of Shchuger river. Telposiz ("The Nest of Winds") is the highest mountain (1617 m). Short dividing ridges (Poyasovy Kamen, Khozatump, Kvarkush, ets.) form the axial part of the mountains. Higher mountains, including popular Konzhakovski Kamen and Denezhkin Kamen, are found in eastern massifs. Western foothills of the North Urals are cha- racterized by wide rolling ridges which are called parmy. We enter the most desolate and unsullied cor- ners of the territory in the north. Northward of the latitudional section of the valley of Shchuger river the mountains become wider again, shooting ththeir numerous ridges. This is the highest land of the Stone Belt - the SUBARCTIC URALS. Here we see the Narodnaya mountain (1895 m), which is the highest peak in the Urals, and some mountains of the Alpine appearance - the famous beauties Sab- lya and Manaraga. North open taiga grows in this part of the Urals. Most of the slopes are bright with the paints of Alpine meadows and mountain, the moun- tains narrow sharply and for the first time deviate from the usual northern direction, turning to the north-east. At the head of Khulga river, where the Subarctic Urals and the ARCTIC URALS meet, the range is represented by a narrow chain of mountains which are practically unforested, devoid of any foothill belt, and open to all winds. Not far from here is Paier (1472 m), the highest peak in the Arctic Urals and one of the most severe mountains in the entire mountain system. Across the valley of Sob river, with a thin line of the northmost Trans-Ural railway connecing Seiga and Labytangi, the Ural mountains, before they blend into the coastal plain, widen again and last groves of the Ural forest occur in warm valleys pro- tected from biting winds. Above them, high in the mountains lie real glaciers. And behind the moun- tains there is tundra stretching right to the coast of the awfully cold Kara sea, with huge ice blocks drif- ting in water even in summer. We invite you to this journey. We want you feel the beauty of the Unknown Urals. So make yourself comfortable in a cushioned arm-chair and... Have a good trip! Nikolai RUNDQUIST The South Urals The South Urals are distinguished for a unique variety of natural landscapes: from the foothill semidesert to the upland tundra. The South Urals mean gigantic skerries Innzerski Zubchatki, initimable Taganai protruding from the sea of forest like a stone island, a huge horeseshoe of Bolshoi Iremel, lake Zyuratkul in an intermontane basin at the northern edge of the Nurgush ridge... The Middle Urals The Middle Urals are the lowest and gentle part of the Ural mountains. Taiga with a thick undergrown with moss and lichen. Skerries Sem Bratiev, Azov mountain and Chusovaya river with its cliffs are on our way... The North Urals The land of the North Urals is at the centre of the Urals but, strange as it may seem, it is here that the most godforsaken places lie hidden. Along with this, it offers tourists most popular Konzhakovski Kamen and Denezhkin Kamen, wonderfull idols of Manpypynjer, the nature museum Torreporreiz, and Kholatchyakhl ("Mountain of the Dead") concealing its horrible secrets, and many other things... The Subarctic Urals The Subarctic Urals are the highest part of the Ural mountains. In addition to the highest peak of the Urals - - mountain Narodnaya, this relatively compact territory is the seat of genuine pearls of the Stone Belt: Sablya and Manaraga mountains, the valley of Povsyanshor stream with numerous waterfalls, countless lake squeezed bet- ween steep slopes, and lovely valleys with graceful open forests... The Arctic Urals The Arctic Urals imply Alpine peaks of Ochenyrd and cold glaciers that make the region look like an austere highland, stunning lakes Khaditaeganlor, Bolshoye Shchuchye and Maloye Shchuchye, and murmuring rivers that run in deep marble canyons in the multicoloured tundra. Here we come to the "last" peaks of the Urals and further there is the coast of the cold Arctic Ocean, smell of the sea and cries of sea-gulls... ----------------------------------------------------------- 26.9.2001